Gas struts and door latch strike plates assembled. (I let out a few seconds of gas from the pre-charged gas struts to reduce the opening force).
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Bonding the top skin
Been putting off bonding the top skin for some time. Was about to do it then realised I need to run another cable for the propellor pitch control. I don’t have the prop cables yet but left some space to hopefully easily thread it later on. When the top skin is fixed it seriously restrict access. Anyway, set to work with Sikaflex 295 UV, instructions say > 10C, so waited till the afternoon we hit about 12 C inside the workshop. The Sikaflex is messy stuff, it gets everywhere. Also messes up your clecos. Lots of acetone was used to clean them and everywhere else it got.
MoreCanopy and Doors
I have QB with canopy factory installed. However, there is still some tricky work to do on the door composites, so I removed them to work on. The main door latch mechanism has a complex shape composite fibreglass cover over it. This needs to be cut and machined to fit the door lever and latches. It’s a firm snap-on fit plus two M4 rivnuts. It took quite a bit of work (2 hours per door) with the Dremmel and filing the mouldings to get a nice fit. Worth spending some time on. It’s very visible and used every flight. I also adjusted the latch mechanism to run smoothly and then added some medium strength Loctite to the connecting rod and latch pivot nut. The KAI shows an optional adjustment hole for the two main pivot points (to enable tightening them up if they become loose). Having seen how tricky it is to get this moulding on and off, I don’t want to have to reopen it after it’s painted, for sure it will get very scratched. So I added the adjustment holes. Following info in case, I need to remove the mouldings in future. Here’s the way I did it. Remove 2 x M4 button head screws, then. Bent the strike plates per instructions. Not clear why they are labelled right and left they seem identical. KAI says shiny side inwards, but my plates were identical on both sides.
MoreInstalling the top skin
Using Evan Byne video guidance affixed the top skin. The composite seemed to need twisting a little to get it to fit evenly on both sides. Using the hole finder tool, the trick is to align the firewall flanges to be flush with the front of the top skin. Then drill the composite. Made a test fit of the dashboard. Not a bad fit but some gaps on top left side. Sourcing a suitable 120-degree pilot/countersink tool for the top skin (and empennage) composite proved tricky in the UK. I found one from a company on the south coast (BSA Regal Cutting Tools) that made one up to the size I needed. 1/8 inch pilot with 5/16 head (3.2 mm x 7.9 mm) that should suit the 3.2 and 4mm countersunk rivets. KAI calls for painting the composite black.
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